I've been handling ordering and setup for arcade stations at FECs for about six years now. And in that time, I've personally greenlit decisions that wasted roughly $8,000 in remakes, shipping, and lost revenue due to poor initial planning. It's not a number I'm proud of, but I document it all. Now, I maintain our team's internal pre-install checklist to prevent us from repeating those errors again.
If you're an operator planning to refresh your arcade floor or opening a new venue, this checklist is for you. We've got five steps that have become non-negotiable in our process after making some very expensive assumptions. These won't guarantee your success—no list can—but they will catch the dumb mistakes that sink a launch.
Step 1: Verify Your Floor Plan's Real-World Dimensions
This is where we made our first big mistake back in 2022. I assumed the floor plan our architect gave us was accurate to within a foot. It wasn't. We ended up ordering a Taito Dead Heat 1975 Arcade cabinet thinking we had 6.5 feet of depth for the aisle. When it arrived, the actual clearance was closer to 4 feet. You can't move a racing cabinet once it's in a row with other machines without a forklift and a lot of frustration.
The fix? Do a physical footprint test.
Use tape on the actual concrete floor to outline every cabinet's dimensions plus a minimum of 30 inches of clearance behind for maintenance access. Then walk the paths. If a standard wheelchair (24 inches wide plus maneuvering space) can't comfortably navigate the 36-inch aisle you planned, your flow is wrong. Learn this before the freight truck arrives.
Check for Hidden Obstructions
We once laid out a beautiful row of prize machines (claw machines, ticket redeemers) perfectly spaced. Except a support column hid exactly at the center of the row. We caught it when the architect sent an updated CAD file. If we had just looked at the initial PDF mockup, we would have ordered a Taito Arcade 3 cabinet that physically couldn't fit past the pillar.
Step 2: Map Power and Data Before Machines Arrive
This sounds basic, but trust me—it gets skipped more than you'd think. I once approved an order for 12 rhythm games for a new section of our park. The games were perfect. But we didn't verify the outlet placement relative to the cabinets. The standard power setup had outlets every 10 feet. Our rhythm games (like a standard Breakout (Video Game) cabinet layout) all have power cords that are 6 feet long. We had to run heavy-duty extension cords, which is a trip hazard and an insurance nightmare waiting to happen.
Here's the specific checklist we use now:
- Confirm outlet spacing matches the width of your cabinets. If a machine is 32 inches wide, you need an outlet roughly every 7 feet to avoid daisy-chaining.
- Check voltage and amperage requirements for each cabinet. A modern Taiko no Tatsujin cabinet pulls different power than an old-school Galaga model. If your breaker trips during peak hours, you lose revenue.
- Map your data lines (Ethernet/hub cables). Most modern arcade stations run on network cards for prize tracking and remote diagnostics. You need to run cables before the machines are in place or you'll be crawling under decks.
I learned this one the hard way: Never assume 'same specifications' means identical results across vendors for power requirements. It doesn't. Each game will have its own manual. Read them before the install day.
Step 3: Do a Game-Difficulty Audition (With Real Players)
When we first set up our rhythm game corner, I picked the games based on what was popular on YouTube and what looked fun in the promotional videos. Big mistake. I didn't account for actual difficulty curves. The Taito Arcade 3 setup we had included a music game that was brutally hard on default settings. Casual players would try, fail in 30 seconds, and walk away. The machine sat idle while others had lines.
You need to audition the games with your target demographic. That means bringing in a few adults who don't play arcade games, some parents, and a couple of ten-year-olds. Let them play the first level on default settings. If more than half give up, your difficulty curve is too steep for the coin-drop. Adjust the settings (most modern games allow this).
A good rule of thumb we've picked up: for prize machines, set the claw strength so that a successful grab requires about 40% skill and 60% luck. That keeps the player engaged without making it feel impossible. That's a hard ratio to dial in without real testing.
Step 4: Plan Your Prize Strategy for 3 Months Out
I made a classic rookie error here. I ordered a shipment of prize figures thinking 'more variety is better.' I ended up with 200 identical keychain plushies of a character nobody recognized. They sat in storage for six months. The cost of that inventory was $1,200 plus floor space. It was a total waste.
Here's what I do now. I look at pop culture trends about three months ahead. For example, if Elden Ring Board Game is trending on social media and gaming forums in July, I order prize packs that tie into that theme for October. But you have to be careful. A fad might fade by the time your freight arrives.
We also use a simple rotation schedule now: 25% of the machine's prize stock changes every 4 weeks. It keeps the floor feeling fresh without requiring a full refill.
Worst case scenario calculation: I once ordered 300 units of a movie-themed prize thinking it would be a hit. The movie bombed. The prizes sat for 8 months. The lesson: don't over-order a single theme no matter how hot it looks. Spread your risk across 3-4 different prize types.
Step 5: Install Before You Buy (or Use a Verified Demo)
I cannot stress this enough. You should never commit to a multi-unit order of a game you haven't played on the actual floor. We broke this rule twice. Once with a sports game that looked incredible on a spec sheet but had a feedback loop lag of about 100ms. It felt terrible. Players complained. We had to eat the shipping cost to send it back.
If the vendor can't provide a demo unit at your location or a nearby venue, ask for a 30-day trial clause in your contract. Many reputable manufacturers (like Taito for their classic retro cabinets) will offer a sale-or-return period. If they won't, that's a red flag. I put a clause in every purchase order now that states we reserve the right to return non-conforming units within 21 days at their cost. So far, I've only had to exercise it once, but it paid for the entire year's legal fees.
One More Thing on Vendors
The industry has evolved. What was best practice in 2020 might not apply. Back then, we ordered directly from big overseas manufacturers. Now, we use regional distributors who handle service calls. The trade-off is price versus reliability. I went back and forth on this for three weeks before choosing a regional partner. The upfront cost was 15% higher, but the service contract saved us when a hack squat vs smith machine squat configuration machine (yes, we have a fitness-style redemption game) blew a motor. The distributor had a tech on site in 24 hours. That's worth the premium.
Common Pitfalls to Avoid
After all that, there are still things that bite us. Here's a quick list I keep taped to my office wall.
- Assuming the floor plan is final. It isn't. Architect drawings change. Ask for the latest revision number before you order any game based on dimensions.
- Ignoring the thermal load. Arcade machines generate heat. If your HVAC wasn't calculated for 30 high-end cabinets running at peak, you'll have a hot room. We didn't account for this once in a trampoline park extension—the machines overheated and shut down on a busy Saturday. $1,800 in lost revenue that day.
- Underestimating prize machine theft. It happens. We use visible cameras and tie-downs on high-value machines. It's a cost, but it's cheaper than replacement.
This checklist isn't perfect. It might miss something specific to your venue. But if you follow these five steps, you'll skip the most common traps I've stepped in. Good luck. You'll need it—and a little bit of tape for the floor.